Wargames Factory Skeletons

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Wargames Factory Skeletons

Postby Jack007 » 21 Apr 2014, 09:12

I'd love to see some of the pictures 'reposted' from the old forum and any new that anyone has done out there of WGF's skeleton troops.

Now, after watching "Jason and the Argonauts", and the brief interview with stop motion master, Ray Harryhausen, which included a great look at one of the original skeleton models from the film the "7th Voyage".

It got me to wondering;
'Does anyone 'undercoat' or 'pre-seal' their WGF skeletons to strengthen the models themselves before the final painting / sealing stage?'
And if so, what is your way of doing so? Always looking for knowledge here :geek: , so please 'sing out'.
"You see old friend. I brought more soldiers than you did." *Leonidas-300
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Re: Wargames Factory Skeletons

Postby Lord Marcus » 21 Apr 2014, 17:04

I prime my models, including my skeletons.
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Re: Wargames Factory Skeletons

Postby lilljonas » 22 Apr 2014, 01:09

I also prime all models, except for Reaper's "Bone" minis. I used to always use a black primer, either gesso paint (which is a kind of paint normally used to prepare canvas for painting with oils etc.) or with black spray primer. Recently I started to prime with a light grey instead, using Vallejo's grey primer paint. Spray is nice and all, but I live in an area with cold, wet and/or windy climate most of the year, which can mess up a spray primer. So I like to have a brush-on primer to fall back on when the weather is bad.

With skeletons you could go the drybrush route, and just prime with a black or dark brown colour and then drybrush with a few lighter brown/ochre/bone white layers. Or you could use a white primer, and then give the models a very heavy black or brown wash, and then pick out the details with a lighter layer or two. Either way you'll get a lot of minis painted quickly.
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Re: Wargames Factory Skeletons

Postby Lord_Bryon » 22 Apr 2014, 07:41

I go with the latter technique mentioned by lilljonas. Prime White, Devlan Mud (Argax Earthshade), Drybrush bone color thin hit it with Seraphim Seppia to dirty it up a little. I like the results and they paint up pretty quick.

Image

I've posted this pic up before, but it's the only one I have at the moment of the finnished skellies.
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Re: Wargames Factory Skeletons

Postby Jack007 » 22 Apr 2014, 21:27

Thanks to all for your comments.

liljonas, my idea was simular to yours. Black or some brown as a base color, then a couple of layers of off white drybrushing and as Bryon suggested Devlan or some brown washing to "dirty it up" a bit again.
Of course Im still thinking (when I start my skeles) I will clear coat them before I even do the base coat, just to help add some strength to them. Yea, you can all tell Im a bit 'fragile' leary of them.

Bryon,
Thats a great one.. I do hope you can post more of your pic's when you have the chance.

Any others out there that have any comments or pictures Please feel free and post both or either.
"You see old friend. I brought more soldiers than you did." *Leonidas-300
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Re: Wargames Factory Skeletons

Postby Lord_Bryon » 23 Apr 2014, 11:03

Jack007 wrote:Of course Im still thinking (when I start my skeles) I will clear coat them before I even do the base coat, just to help add some strength to them. Yea, you can all tell Im a bit 'fragile' leary of them.


Let me know how that works. Allthough the newer skellies are harder to break, they still break. If hitting them with clear coat helps even the slightest I'd be very interested. I've made up 10 skellies for D&D Purposes and I'm terrified to let the PC's touch them for fear of them snapping on the table top.
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Re: Wargames Factory Skeletons

Postby Lord Marcus » 23 Apr 2014, 18:24

I made a skeletal persian fig. give me a little bit and I'll post it as a second example next to byron's
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Re: Wargames Factory Skeletons

Postby Jack007 » 26 Apr 2014, 02:49

Lord_Bryon wrote:
Jack007 wrote:..Im still thinking ..I will clear coat them before I even do the base coat, just to help add some strength to them.


Let me know how that works. ..the newer skellies are harder to break, they still break. If .. clear coat helps even the slightest I'd be very interested. ..I'm terrified to let the PC's touch them for fear of them snapping on the table top.

I hear you Bryon, I tend to lean to the old saying, "every little bit helps". So Im thinking, as you just said, "if the clear coat (going on first) helps even the slightest IM happy to go that route to help protect / reinforce them.
It goes without saying, Im sure others as well as myself, would love to see some of those you have build for your RPG games.
"You see old friend. I brought more soldiers than you did." *Leonidas-300
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Re: Wargames Factory Skeletons

Postby Lonnie » 26 Apr 2014, 06:11

I think you'll just end up diluting the detail before painting rather than adding anything in the way of strength myself but that's just my opinion.
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Re: Wargames Factory Skeletons

Postby mrinku » 26 Apr 2014, 15:09

I've heard of a dilute coat of PVA helping a lot with soft plastic figures, but that had more to do with stiffening and improving the paint adhesion.
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