I was asked to paint the figures from Wargames Factory's 'Hammer of the Gods' range, and I decided to take photographs as I did so in order to create a tutorial. I've been wanting to do this for quite a while, and time finally permitted it. Without further ado...
1. The tutorial starts off with a prepped and primed Wargames Factory Viking warrior. After scraping any mold lines and gluing the limbs, weapon, shield, and head, I glued the figure to a WGF plastic base. The glue I like now is Plastruct Bondene for Stryene and ABS. I use “All-purpose joint repair compound” (the stuff you use to fill cracks in drywall) to smooth out the transition from base to feet.
I primed the figure with Dupli-Color automotive primer. I lay the figures on their back and spray gray from below, and after drying flip them over and spray again. After this coat is dry, I put them upright and spray white from above, rotate, and spray again. This promotes a shaded look from the start and helps pick out detail.
I use a variety of paints including Games Warkshop, Vallejo, and Ceramcoat. I mostly use Robert Simmons 785 series brushes, 1/0 and 2/0 - although I’m starting to use natural hair brushes lately.
2. Using black paint (or very dark brown) thinned slightly with water, I line the areas where clothing changes, edges of the shield, weapon.
3. I apply Games Workshop ‘Tallarn Flesh’ as a base skintone.
4. I used a dark brown, Americana ‘Soft Black’, to paint in the eye socket.
5. I carefully paint in the eye white. I used a Vallejo white in this case, although about any manufacturer’s white will work. If you don’t get the white exactly centered, don't worry too much as you can touch it up in the next step.
6. Dot in the pupil with black. I probably used Games Workshop ‘Chaos Black’ but I also have Vallejo and Ceramcoat blacks on the desk.
7. I use a medium flesh tone to start to highlight the skin areas. In this case I used Games Workshop ‘Cadian Flesh’ with just a little Vallejo ‘Basic Skintone’.
8. I apply a brown wash, Games Workshop ‘Reiklander Fleshshade’ over the skin areas, and over some of the linework elsewhere. I don’t really ‘pool’ the wash, I mainly use it to tie tones together and shift the color toward the warm side.
9. I reapply the flesh tone on the raised areas of the skin, with just a bit more Vallejo ‘Basic Skintone’ added.
10. A final highlight on the highest points, using about 50/50 ‘Cadian Flesh’/Vallejo ‘Basic Skintone’.
11. I moved onto clothing and hair at this stage. I mixed a green using some Vallejo Game Color ‘Sick Green’ and a bit of Games Workshop ‘Knarlock Green’. After this was dry I painted the trim with Games Workshop ‘Iyanden Darksun’. I also painted in the beard with Ceramcoat ‘Old Parchment’.
12. I added a bit of the Ceramcoat ‘Old Parchment’ to the ‘Iyanden Darksun’ and painted the highest edges of the trim. I also added a small amount of ‘Old Parchment’ to the green and began to pick out the folds on the clothing. I added a bit more ‘Old Parchment’ to the mix for a third highlight.
13. I painted the belt, feet, and back of the shield with Vallejo Game Color ‘Beastly Brown’. I used a blue-gray on the legs, and then I carefully picked out the leg laces with a light brown, probably Ceramcoat ‘Toffee Brown’. The lacing is pretty tough- don't worry if you are slightly imprecise on it, as a later wash will help refine the edges.
14. Using a light brown I picked out the belt and added some texture to the shoes, and added a little highlight to some of the laces and belt pouch.
15. I applied a wash to the leg laces, the back of the shield, and also reinforced the lines the separate the pouch and belt from the tunic. I used Games Workshop ‘Argax Earthshade’.
16. I decided the tunic needed a little more contrast, so I added a little white to the green mix from earlier and applied it to the folds of the tunic. I also added a little white to the gray for the raised areas on the leggings, and picked out the exposed areas between the laces.
17. I applied a wash of ‘Reiklander Fleshshade’ to the beard and painted the edge of the shield with Games Workshop ‘Beastly Brown’.
18. I went back to the Ceramcoat ‘Old Parchment’ for highlighting the hair in the beard. I also applied a light brown to the shield edge, in a somewhat irregular way.
19. I painted the rivets with a thinned black, and relined the area where the rim transitions to shield.
20. The metal areas of the sword pommel, blade, helmet, boss, and rivets are painted with Vallejo ‘Gunmetal Gray’
21. I added a highlight to the metal areas with Games Workshop ‘Mithril Silver’. I started on the shield by painting in a design with Games Workshop ‘Chaos Black’ and Games Workshop ‘Mechrite Red’.
22. I skipped a photo here. I painted the shield with a brighter red, Games Workshop ‘Evil Sun Scarlet’ and the black area with a little dark gray. Then I weathered the shield with some nicks and rents by making some thin lines with dark brown and lighter values of the shield design colors.
23. I forgot to take a photo here as well, so this unfriendly looking guy will have to stand in.
I base the figures with a brown decorative sand purchased from a hobby store. I paint regular Elmer’s glue on the base with an old brush and dip the entire base into the container containing the sand. Let it dry.
24. I paint the base with a thinned craft paint, Apple Barrel ‘Burnt Umber’. If it is slightly thinned the paint will ‘wick’ through the sand grains by capillary action.
25. I drybrush the sand texture with Ceramcoat ‘Spice Brown’, followed by Ceramcoat ‘Toffee Brown’. Paint the rim dark brown.
26. I put a few dabs of glue around the base and dip the base into a tub of Games Workshop static grass.
For a final seal I usually spray the figures with an acrylic satin seal for durability, followed by a coat of Testor’s Dullcote to flatten the sheen.
Feel free to ask any questions